One way to be absolutely sure is to use our calculator to find the exact number of chain links needed.
But what if you are building a new bike or you don’t have an old chain for reference? Now you know exactly how long the new chain should be and you can detach the links you don’t need. You can use either of these two methods: Take your old chain and lay it out next to the new one. All you need are a chain rivet or a chain lock and you will need to know the amount of chain links needed for a correct chain length. Click here to learn more.It really isn’t too difficult to get the chain length right. By becoming a supporter of E-MOUNTAINBIKE, you will help secure a sustainable future for high-quality cycling journalism.
Check out this article on how to look after your chain so that you’ll avoid this one in the future.ĭid you enjoy this article? If so, we would be stoked if you decide to support us with a monthly contribution. These could have been bent through contact with a rock or just have rusted through lack of care. – Stiff chain links: If the chain does run smoothly over the cogs and there’s added noise, then it’s perhaps down to overly stiff chainlinks. (Plus, we’d lubricate them every couple of months, especially if you’re riding in the wet). We recommend changing your gear cables once a year. – Gear outer too short: If the cables are aged or corroded, then there’ll be friction and imprecise, awkward shifting or it just might not work at all. So while you’re out riding, make sure you’ve adjusted the top stop so that the chain can’t jump into the spokes – but really, it’s time to fit a new gear hanger. – Gear cables (inners and outers) are worn: If the gear hanger is bent, then the derailleur won’t be aligned properly with the cassette, which means you’re likely to have problems shifting and a chain that jumps off the cassette. – Gear hanger bent: If the gear hanger is bent, then the derailleur won’t be aligned properly with the cassette, which means you’re likely to have problems shifting and a chain that jumps off the cassette. If you’re still having issues after sorting out the shifting, then here are some potential issues and how to tackle them: Now your shifting has been sorted you’re ready to hit the trails! If there are problems when you’re shifting down, then reduce the tension again (screw in). If the chain isn’t moving cleanly to the big cog, then add some tension by unscrewing the screw a little. After you’ve finely adjusted the derailleur, then it’s time to adjust the cable tension. As loads of bikes have rear end lengths that vary depending on the suspension’s movement (and therefore the chain too when the shock compresses), you need to make sure that you set the chain gap in the sag position (i.e. The screw for adjusting the chain gap is found on the back of the derailleur. SRAM provide a gauge, which simplifies this adjustment. The chain gap is the distance between the largest sprocket and the upper jockey wheel, and it should be about 22 mm. If the chain is on the biggest cog then you can adjust the chain gap (derailleur tension). Too much play and you’ll force the derailleur into the spokes. There should still be some minimal play in the gear lever after shifting – if you’ve set the stop too early, the gear shifter just won’t click into position. You should set this so that you’re not having to actually press against the inner stop to get the chain to move onto the largest cog. Slowly click up through the gears… … and then adjust the inner stop with the outside screw. Once set up properly, the upper jockey wheel should be directly under the smallest cog. Turn the screw clockwise, and the derailleur moves inwards (i.e., limiting its outward movement) and vice-versa. If it won’t jump down to the smallest, then release some tension on the cable using a 5 mm allen key.Īdjust the outer stop with help of the inside screw on the rear mech. First shift down to the smallest chainring. However, it’s wise to follow this guide from start to finish so that you can rule out other issues. If the derailleur has already been fitted well but still isn’t working properly, it might be the case that it just needs a few tweaks in order to run smoothly. This is a complete how-to on setting up a SRAM EX1 drivetrain in particular, but the same steps will apply to all SRAM 11-speed derailleurs.